Thanks

It would be trickier to do it in soft snowboard boots, but you might be able to make it work. I’ve heard that some crampons work with soft boots, so as long as you’re diligent about drying the boots out… I’m a pretty big proponent of hardboot riding for snowboard alpinism–they’re lighter, warmer, more responsive, waterproof, and they take crampons more easily. Just my opinion. I actually haven’t ridden soft boots in years.

I also wore 40-Below overboots on summit day. (The Purple Haze model stretches to fit over ski boot cuffs.) It’s wicked cold up there, and on a previous trip without overboots my parther frostbit his toes on summit day. We spent the afternoon rewarming his toes in pots of warm water instead of hitting our line. Bummer.

Let me know if you have any other questions. Good luck up there!

More…
Andy

I think I remember seeing you up there, on tele gear with your girlfriend/wife? You were heading down as we were heading up?

We definitely had variable conditions on the descent, from cold & sticky bulletproof off the summit and across the Football Field to fun breakable windslab in the upper Messner and then deteriorating to breakable crust. Good and challenging. The last 1000′ or so into camp were fantastic powder.

Timing the snow conditions is a funny thing up there. When I was guiding in early May, we saw great powder all over the mountain until the huge windstorm blew it all away. (We had 4 days of 80-90mph winds at high camp.) But the light storms we got in June laid down enough snow to make our descent possible. Last year found me sitting in high camp drooling while we watched Chris Davenport and crew ski the Messner in knee-deep powder, sometime around June 20th.

What time to go? So much depends on the winter precip up there–this year was huge, so the glacier-travel down low was super easy. I would guess that you could definitely get into the NE Fork in late-May, provided that they don’t have a dry winter. Some friends of mine went up the NE Fork in early June this year to climb the Cassin Ridge–seems like the “Valley of Death” went fine for them. It’s definitely warmer with long daylight hours in late-May/early June.

We climbed the Riblet from 14-camp–pretty fun, straightforward climbing that offers the most reasonable one-day ascent/descent option from 14. The full Rib sounds awesome, though. Go for it! Are you planning to carry skis up the whole thing?

Let me know if you’re ever in the Tetons–I’m always looking for fun, motivated partners.

AJ

How was the overall snow condition when you guys skied? Much variability due to elevation? It seemed like it was starting to fill in by mid-June. I remember when we first arrived at 14 camp everything was blue ice, a result of a 60-100 mph wind storm.

Planning on scheduling another trip this upcoming spring, although a little later to hopefully see more precipitation. Did you guys climb the entire Rib route from 8000′ or the Riblet from 14 camp? Here’s my major question: Would showing up in late May allow us a better chance to see better snow while allowing us access into the “Valley of Death” (NE Fork Kahiltna), or would this portion of the route be impassible that late in the season? Obviously it’s at the whim of seasonal variability but any insight you may have would be greatly appreciated.

Can’t wait to ski big peaks,
Kyle

I´ve been there twice. First time was -97 and rode the Messner. What a run! I had it really good, the couloir was filled in with good powder most of the way. The second time I went there, in 99,I just climbed up with my girlfriend. My friends skied and snowboarded the West Rib top to bottom and down the glacier, in about four hours, which I suppose is pretty fast a 14 000 ft descent.

There is tons and tons of superb descents in the area. Not just from the summit, but all over the place. Most everything is still up for graps, there is endless possibilities for super rad first descents.

I just love the place, been really missing it, and plan on going back there next year…

Fun mountain. Jim Zellers and I snowboarded the Orient Express in 1991. We had minus 40 temps. The only time in my life I have climbed with down pants on and was not sweating to death.

Tom

I’ve never read an adventure account that gave me a better feel of being there! The pictures are a perfect complement to the words, and the words manage to tell the sequential story clearly, to give a reader the feel of the incredible ride, and to make the rush and tangle of emotions palpable. Thanks for taking me along!

Can’t wait for winter!