Late-Season Descent of the Grand
Friday, September 18th, 2009
It occurred to me as we moved to high camp. I was guiding a climb of Denali’s West Buttress; we were carrying huge packs, moving REALLY slowly up the ridge in sub-zero temperatures. “Wouldn’t it be nice to move fast with a light pack? I’ll bet the Tetons are gorgeous right now. The trail into Garnet might even be clear.”
A dry initial approach
So, 2 days after I got home Jake and I left my dog with a friend and headed up into the Park. We figured the Grand Teton would still have plenty of snow on it for a late-season descent, but weren’t totally sure about the approach—should we bring skins? Should I bring my approach skis? Lupine Meadows was dry and hot when we pulled in, the smell of sage strong in the air, and snow line looked way up there. Jake convinced me that I should bring my approach skis anyway, just in case.
Walking in sneakers with light packs we flew up the trail into Garnet Canyon, finally changing to boots and skis for the last half-mile to the Meadows. It made for a quick half-mile, though. While I shoveled a platform and pitched the tent, Jake dug down a few feet to find the creek.
Going to bed.
We ate hoagie sandwiches as the stars started to appear and slid into our sleeping bags on a lovely, warm night.
The climb up to the Grand from the Meadows was smooth, with the exception of a brief route-finding snafu.
Jake on the Teepe Glacier at sunrise.
AJ climbs to the base of the Stettner Couloir. (Just around the corner...)
Firm snow made for fast boot-packing and we were at the bottom of the Stettner Couloir just after sunrise. Unlike earlier this year, the Stettner was one big, icy runnel peppered with rocks—great climbing but unlikely skiing.
Climbing super firm snow and ice in the lower Stettner Couloir.
We climbed the Stettner unroped, and pitched-out the ice in the Chevy traverse to the base of the Ford Couloir.
Jake leads the first pitch of the Chevy Couloir.
Another hour of firm step-kicking brought us to the summit and endless views into Idaho, Wyoming and Montana.
The last step to the summit!
The view from the top of the Grand is unbelievable; everything else is SO FAR below! Under bluebird skies, we sat in the sun for a bit, soaking it all in and recharging for the descent while the snow finished corning up. I dropped in first, making a few test turns before opening it up down the southeast ridge to the top of the Ford.
Warm-up turns above the Ford Couloir. The Glacier Route/East Face of the Middle Teton in the background.
The entrance to the Ford is pretty steep—close to 50 degrees—but with it full of sweet corn we made big, fast turns, outrunning our sluff, leapfrogging our way down to the top of the Chevy.
AJ drops in to the top of the Ford Couloir.
Jake enjoys sweet corn in the Ford Couloir.
And that was the end of the riding up high on the mountain—the Chevy is unrideable and the Stettner would be awful turning, so after 4 pitches of rappelling we arrived at the bottom of our line and traversed around to the Teepe Glacier for another 2500’ of fun turns in the sun back to camp.
The first of four pitches of rappelling off the Grand.
What a sweet outing! The descent was almost more rappelling than riding but the climbing was fun, the weather was perfect, and it felt so good to move fast. We strolled the rest of the way down the trail into the forest and early-blooming wildflowers, chatting about what to ski next weekend and the massive amounts of food we would consume when we got back to Victor.
