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Humble Pie in the Apocalypse Couloir

Saturday, February 21st, 2009

After the huge success of my trip into the Tetons with NOLS in January (check out my last post,) I was super inspired to get up into the higher peaks at the core of the range.  Unfortunately, my next foray wasn’t quite as successful–after leaving the house at 2am, my buddy Jake and I turned back from the East Face of the Middle Teton within 250′ of the summit.  Totally frustrating (especially as this was my third attempt at the East Face) but with deteriorating weather and the trickiest part of the climb right in our faces, we had to call it a day.

Riding the East Face

Riding the East Face

As it was, we got some amazing 55-degree turns on chalky powder for ~1200′ down to the glacier below.  And fat powder down the glacier and out Garnet Canyon.

So that was the setup when we decided to tackle the Apocalypse Couloir on Prospector’s Mountain a few days later.  Having just been denied the summit of the Middle, we probably had some extra “human factor” preying on us when we set out across Phelps Lake with the Apocalypse in view.  I like to think that I’m pretty good at staying objective in my decision-making in the mountains.  Perhaps not super conservative, but thoughtful.

In any case, the trip into the base of the couloir took longer than expected–goofy route-finding and unclear directions from a different parking lot than where I’ve started in the past.

Crossing the lake.

Crossing the lake.

We ran into a couple of moose right where we wanted to cross the creek in Death Canyon–cool wildlife encounter, but it definitely took us a bit of time to skirt around them.  After leaving my approach skis tucked under a rock below the couloir, we began the long bootpack that would ultimately place us in the cave at the apex of the couloir.  Nice powder varied from ankles to knee-deep climbing into the couloir proper, and then firmed up as we approached the ice in the narrows.

Moose in Death Canyon

Moose in Death Canyon

The Apocalypse is an hourglass-shaped couloir with a ~40′ section of mixed snow and ice in the narrows, requiring mild climbing technique to continue moving up, and a rappel or downclimb for the return trip.  Above the narrows, as the upper funnel opens up, the couloir takes a hard left and continues for another 1000′ to the cave at the top and steep rock continuing to the summit of Prospector’s.  My understanding is that Stephen Koch and Mark Newcomb named it the Apocalypse when they made the first descent because of the unreal amount of ice hanging over the lower half of the route, presenting the very real possibility of being crushed under icefall if things warm up.  Little bits and chunks of ice rain down as you climb; it’s quite a relief to climb past the narrows and into the more standard couloir-skiing hazards of moving snow and rockfall.

Jake climbs through the narrows.

Jake climbs through the narrows.

We chose a cold day with light snowfall in the hopes that low temps would keep the ice in place.  In that assessment we were correct; nothing much was moving up there, just wispy little spindrifts pouring off the rocks above and blowing apart in the light breeze.  The trailbreaking in the upper couloir was great–firm and fast–with the exception of three pockets of ridiculously deep powder.

Deep trailbreaking.

Deep trailbreaking.

As in belly-button-deep.  Brutal, and it should have been a clear sign that conditions weren’t as safe as we’d thought.  My instinct was telling me that something wasn’t right, but we were working so hard to get to the top and we had just turned back from the Middle and all we wanted was to finish this thing, so we kept going.

We took some time in the cave at the top to eat and drink, replenishing ourselves after the 6-hour push to get there.  Then Jake took a couple of pictures and set up to shoot me making the first few turns down our line.

AJ exiting the cave.

AJ exiting the cave.

On my tenth turn, I pulled out the first slab.  It pushed me around a bit, but I rode off of it and yelled up for Jake to ski the bed surface down to me.  It turned out those deep pockets were slabs waiting for the right shear force to cause them to fail.  On my sixth turn of the next pitch I pulled out another, deeper slab.  Probably about 40cm deep, it was moving with some serious force and it took me a while to get off the side of it.  I don’t often experience real fear when I’m out, but as the slab carried me downhill and piled up on my shoulders I was scared.  All I could do was try to carry momentum to the side and toss myself into the rock wall bordering the couloir.  Ultimately, I got out of it and watched the debris speed by as it slid down and around the corner.  At that moment, I wanted more than anything to be safe at home with my wife and our dog.

AJ rides the Apocalypse Couloir.  (Note the avalanche crown in lower right of picture.)

AJ rides the Apocalypse Couloir. (Note the crown in the lower right corner.)

After Jake skied down to me again, we discussed what to do from there, how to manage the last pocket, and then made cautious turns down to the main fork of the couloir.  The last pocket was totally wiped clean by the slab I had just knocked loose, so we actually had pleasant, firm 50-degree turns down to the narrows and then more powder below the downclimb.

It was a pensive, sobering trip out of the mountains.  I hate the feeling that I had so lost perspective of the stability up there, and lost control of my own safety.  We were driven to make it go, had the blinders on, and easily brushed aside obvious changes in the snow conditions.  As Jake put it, it was a cheap lesson: pay attention when things change, keep the drive and ambition and commitment out of my decision-making.  It would have been catastrophic to be carried the full length of the couloir.  Today I got by with a healthy serving of humble pie.

Finding Treasure in the Tetons

Saturday, February 14th, 2009

AJ Linnell breaking trail on Treasure Mountain using Wagner Custom approach skis

AJ Linnell breaking trail on Treasure Mountain using Wagner Custom approach skis


I just spent 10 days in the Tetons teaching an instructor training seminar for NOLS, doing some really amazing riding while training a new generation of backcountry snowboarding instructors. With all the time we spent skinning and riding, my trainees were pretty impressed at the performance of my Wagner Custom approach skis, and how easy my transitions were compared to their splitboards. 50cm of new snow graced us over the first few days, and after seeing the start to our season’s snowpack it was really nice to see stability improve around here, opening up the big lines that were too dangerous before. On our last tour day I went down the far north ridge of Treasure Mountain with five of our riders to explore an avalanche path up there.
AJ Incoming

AJ Incoming


We made our way along the heavily corniced ridgeline under overcast skies, cutting one HUGE cornice to test the slope below–no reaction under hundreds of pounds of impact made us feel pretty good about the situation. Test pits near the starting zone of our intended path confirmed good stability, so we punched the gut in fast powder, riding one-at-a-time from safe zone to safe zone. (Practicing good down-guiding technique.) Big rooster tails ripping through little trees in steep terrain had everybody grinning and whooping, and the turns just kept coming. We finally reached the bench at the “bottom” of our run when I realized that we were standing at the top of a shot that I had been eyeing for a couple of years from the skateski track below. It was pure luck that we ended up right on top of it, with perfect conditions and a group of strong riders. Awesome.
AJ scopes the entrance

AJ scopes the entrance

The Boy Scout Couloir is so named because it is the only clean line through the 400′ limestone cliff above the Treasure Mountain boy scout camp. Steep, narrow, and perfectly plumb, the couloir is a deep and beautiful cleft through towering rock walls. Ultimately, the reason that I hadn’t ridden it before was because of the long access and the difficulty of finding it from above. But with us camped on the summit of Treasure Mountain, we were perfectly set up for a descent and didn’t even know it. It would mean a long skin back to camp, but what better way to wrap up this trip?

AJ exits Boy Scout Couloir

AJ exits Boy Scout Couloir


After describing the couloir to my tour group they jumped at the chance to ride it, so I took over the down-guiding and we rode up to the lip to scout the entrance. We found a little sneak above some rocks to access a dozen 50-degree turns into the meat of the couloir–beautiful. Once everybody was grouped up inside the couloir, I rode firm, fun powder to a good spotting zone just above the rock portal at the exit and gave the team the thumbs-up to ride it out one-at-a-time. They made fast, controlled turns, leaving cold crystal rooster tails, opening it up once they hit the fan at the exit. Once they were safely through and into the forest below, I aired off my perch and rode out to join them. Big smiles, lots of high-fives and general giddyness ensued.
What a ride

What a ride


We rode down through a bit more forested terrain to the bottom of the canyon and transitioned for the skin back up. After 8 days of winter camping, everybody was a bit fatigued and really hungry, but super stoked to finish the trip with a line like that. The 5-hour skin back up (splitboard skins can be a nightmare) took a circuitous route up Eddington Canyon and past the Eddington Chutes. (We had ridden those a couple of days earlier.) We watched the sun set over the Big Holes just as we climbed a bootpack through the rock band at the top of the Treasure Mountain massif, the sky turning lava red. Dusk fell into dark as we rolled back into camp, spent but happy, ready for a huge dinner feed and looking forward to going home to family and friends.
Skinning home

Skinning home


Skinning out of the mountains with our camp in the sled behind me, I became acutely aware of the caliber of the backcountry snowboarding program that we’ve created at NOLS. If you’re a snowboarder and you want to take your riding to the next level in the backcountry, I would definitely consider taking a course–you’d be amazed at the experience.

The Why Couloir

Monday, January 19th, 2009

The Why Couloir January 11, 2009 — Words and photos by Brad Foley

Scott in the Why

Scott in the Why


Knowing that the skiing out the backcountry gate had been hit hard over the last two days and wanting to ski soft snow for Scott’s birthday we headed to the east side of the Bear Creek valley. The forecast was for blue skies and the Why had looked good from across the valley as we headed to the gate.
The Why Couloir

The Why Couloir


Dan, Ryan and I had yet to ski the Why Couloir and Scott having only skied it once before we decided to go. Adding to the spaghetti string of tracks on the way to the skin route we were excited with the idea of soft snow and blue skies. Climbing quickly we made the ridge just as the weather began to deteriorate. With wind increasing and snow now starting to fall we negotiated the intricate ridge to the entrance of the Why, wondering if we had made the right decision. A little billy goating and we were in the main couloir. Since it was Scott’s birthday it only made sense that he drop in first and we hoped the snow was soft and the falling snow made for an amazing scene.
Scott skiing the upper pitch of the Why

Scott skiing the upper pitch of the Why


Skiing the Exit couloir

Skiing the Exit couloir


Skiing conservatively down the steep couloir, we found a mix of dense powder and some wind board in the middle section of the couloir. With three large cliff bands at the bottom we traversed out to the exit couloir and found turn after turn of perfect light, dry San Juan powder, the best skiing of the day.
Turns in lower Delta Bowl

Turns in lower Delta Bowl


The clouds were lifting and our spirits high, we were all feeling lucky to have been able spend the day together in such a magical place. It was Scott’s fortieth and my first time in the Why, I hope it was as memorable for him as it was for me. Why not…
Please drink responsibly

Please drink responsibly

Chronicles of a freeskier – Travis Wolfe reflects about his Wagner Custom skis

Wednesday, November 5th, 2008

Travis Wolfe conducting durability tests on his Wagner Custom skis.  photo: Zak Gerdts

Travis Wolfe conducting durability tests on his Wagner Custom skis. photo: Zak Gerdts

Last winter Wagner Custom skis and snowboards picked me up as a factory team rider. It was pretty wild – I was standing on the podium after placing 4th in Telluride’s freeskiing competition when Herb Manning of Wagner Custom suddenly handed me my first pair of Wagner Custom skis and informed me that I’m sponsored. Damm was I excited!!! I had myself a pair of the sickest skis on earth.
Travis Wolfe airing the Shark Fin at the Taos Freeriding Competition - photo by Chason Russell

Travis Wolfe airing the Shark Fin. photo: Chason Russell


The first time I took them out I was ecstatic. Instantly I was in awe at their performance and incredible endurance. I used those skis for the rest of the winter and took them to 3 more freeskiing competitions after Telluride where they outperformed every other pair of skis I’ve ever owned. Before riding on Wagner Customs, I went through 2 pairs of skis in less than 2 months including one pair I wrecked after just 3 days. Then I obtained the Wagner skis and they held up beautifully throughout the rest of the season. I remember seeing other competitors at the freeskiing events with broken skis and foot long strips of p-text hanging off there skis and all I could do was laugh because I skied my Wagner’s super hard and nothing would happen to them. I would jump off of cliffs onto rocks, even ski over rocks, without even thinking twice about it. When I would get to the end of my runs I would look at the bottom of my skis thinking that they would be wrecked and to my surprise there wouldn’t be more than a small scratch.

Eventually I was purposely trying to wreck my skis to test their durability and I couldn’t do a thing to them. Wagner’s are by far the best skis I have ever had the pleasure of skiing and I wouldn’t trade them for anything.
-Travis Hart Wolfe
Travis Wolfe above the Ophir valley

Travis Wolfe above the Ophir valley

Dreamy Ski Descent of Volcan Lanin

Saturday, November 1st, 2008

Words and photos by Chason Russell
Road to Lanin

Road to Lanin

An unsuccessful attempt in 2001, illusive yet again in 2006, and topping the list during the years in between. At 3776 meters Volcan Lanin was consuming my thoughts. This time around, in the beginning of October 2008, I would go for it again. As the chairs stopped spinning in Las Lenas and after spending some quality ski time with my brother, it was time to return to the Patagonia region with only a week remaining during a month long ski adventure. Traveling from Las Lenas through the night to the Argentine resort town of San Martin de los Andes I was inspired again with a glimpse of the volcano from the bus. Arriving in San Martin, only two hours drive from the base of Lanin, the weather waiting game began.
Staying in the hostel Puma, it was not long before I found some like-minded individuals keen on an attempt of the volcano. Spending only a few rainy, windy days around the region we made the most of it seeking out hot springs, I was happy for the rest after the previous week spent in Lenas. Eventually we were presented with a small yet promising window in the weather. It would happen the day before I absolutely had to catch a bus back to Buenos Aires in order to catch a flight back to the states.
The true adventure began when I loaded up ‘radio flyer’, a small red Suzuki samurai, with Nick Frazee, an acquaintance from Las Lenas, and Drew Friedmann, telemark skier and proud car owner from Chicago. Cramming our gear and ourselfves into the rig we began driving toward the volcano. We didn’t make it very far before the sound of metal on metal and smell of burning brakes had us a bit worried. Turns out we had blown a wheel bearing on ‘radio flyer’.  Two or Three hours of drinking mate with the mechanic, modifying bearing components and disconnecting the rear breaks, and we were on the road again.
Just another bump in the road

Just another bump in the road

Arriving to the base of the volcano several hours later than we expected, the wind was ravaging the cone. Clouds tore past, it was apparent that any snow witch had fallen in the days’ prior would be lost to sublimation. Realizing we would not have enough daylight to reach the Refugio some 1100 meters above, we turned to plan B: Stay at the base and climb and ski the volcano in one day. Only problem, we were expecting to have the shelter of the Refugio, and left our tents and bivy sacs behind. The cold temps and high winds would make it almost unbearable to sleep out.  Conversing with some locals, we were informed the Gendarmes (Argentina military) might allow us to camp in the stable behind their headquarters. As soon as the Jefe returned from border duty we were granted permission to make camp in the loft of the stable. After a light dinner consisting of Knorr soup, bread, salami, and a little cheese, we strolled over to the headquarters to have our water bottles filled in preparation for a huge day. When the Gendarme returned to the door with our H20 bottles he had only one question “quién es su guía?” (Who is your guide?) I quickly replied “YO!” he nodded, smiled and we were on our way back to the stable.
Radio Flyer parked by the stable

Radio Flyer parked by the stable

There are a few requirements to climb Lanin. For one, you are supposed to check in with the park ranger and prove you have all the proper equipment (proper clothing, sunglasses, sturdy boots, ice ax, crampons, VHF radio) from the sound of it, a guide also. Though we had rented all the gear to be legit (VHF radio, ice ax) there would be no one around to show it to. Apparently the park ranger was taking a few days off.

As darkness ebbed in over the peak, the winds subsided and the clouds dissipated. It was becoming apparent that we might get the weather window we had been looking for. With an alarm set for 4:45am, it wouldn’t be until 5:07am when I finally awoke. Rousting my two compadres, we indulged in a quick oat breakfast and began hiking in the calm, star lit darkness toward the towering giant a little after 6:00am. The Gendarme dog who had befriended us decided to tag along also. As we searched for the trail in the darkness, the dog would look back, eyes gleaming in light of our headlamps, as if to say “follow me.” ‘Perro’ as we called him, had a keen sense of where we were headed. Couldn’t help but wonder how many times this dog had been on the volcano? Without a doubt we had found our true ‘guia’. Reaching the edge of tree line as the stars gave way to the ever-changing hue of dawn, our route up the northeast ridge of Lanin would become more apparent. Working our way up the alluvial fan, the first violet rays reached the summit of Lanin. Ascending into the light it would only take about 4 hrs before we arrived at the Refugio.

By the dawns early light

By the dawns early light

Refugio

Refugio

Skinning toward the orange space module meticulously placed half way up the ascent, we encountered three Italians who had weathered the winds in the Refugio. Curious how early we had started and what our plans were, the three began their ascent toward the summit. The hundreds of switchbacks we had bypassed on the skin up now had more meaning. Enjoying a snack and the incredible views from the Refugio, Nick and I took a breather while our friend Drew from Chicago worked his way up the snowfields. Fully outfitted in rental gear from San Martin, Drew was at a bit of a disadvantage. Barely leaving tracks in the firm snow as we advanced passed the Refugio, we used our best Spanish to convince ‘Perro’(the dog) to stay. Seemed a good idea, as the terrain above is noticeably steeper, and I had a feeling the dog might not agree with the descent I had in mind.
Dog Nap

Dog Nap

One foot in front of another, it was not long before Nick and I passed up the Italians. Drew would embark on an adventure of his own, as we were moving at a far different pace. With every step the temperature rose, and snow conditions worsened. By the time we reached the gully that led to the summit, the wind strugy had taken over the snow pack and we were sweating bullets. Changing from skins to crampons, the higher we got, the larger the cauliflower like snow formations became. Cresting the summit ridge, a glance down revealed ant like figures descending back toward the Refugio. Nick and I would be the only two to summit on this day. Crunching our way through the icy, foot deep cauliflower, we reached the summit a little before 4pm. Making the entire approach from 1150 meters to 3776 meters (approx 8613 feet) in about 9.5 hrs. Soaking in the incredible vista, it was time to figure out how we were going to descend. Skiing down the approach would simply be horrendous. Besides, the east facing couloir descending 1000 plus meters into the ice field below had captured my attention since my first glance at the Volcano. Creeping toward the southeast edge, which appeared to drop of the face of the earth, I relied on a mental image of the summit to locate a small relief that led to the 50 plus degree east couloir.

It seemed Nick also had some reservations about this line, indeed it was steep, sustained and littered with crevasses near the bottom. At first glance the snow conditions appeared far better than anything we had seen yet. Tossing the first snowball down the fall line revealed a sense of excitement as it sank into the soft wind deposit. A few more snowballs confirmed my suspicion. It appeared good to go. Nick agreed to spot me as I crept over the edge relying on my self-arrest grip until my skis made purchase in the chalky snow.  We agreed on some hand signals.  Nick would decide whether or not he would drop in on his split-board after watching my descent. One chalky, steep, technical turn at a time I made my way toward the minefield of crevasses below. Glancing up from the bottom of the couloir, I could barley discern Nick’s open arms indicating he would follow.  Silently murmuring “I hope you got it” I watched as Nick gracefully made his way to my location. These would be the first turns either of us would witness from one another, as we had never ridden together. Convening at the beginning of a long traverse through the ice field, the two of us admitted our lack of glacial experience and picked the best line we could. Our fear of these bottomless, hidden hazards was confirmed when Nick exposed a deep dark crack in the ice at the begining of our traverse back toward the safety of the approach route. Successfully completing the traverse, we made our way down some great corn snow back to the Refugio. Here, the Italians confirmed that our friend had retrieved the dog and would meet us at the bottom. We graciously accepted their offering of some “dirty water” (melted snow and tang), as our water bottles had long since been empty. Slightly recharged we continued down.

Nick on the ascent

Nick on the ascent

Chason and Nick on the summit

Nick and Chason on the summit

Looking down the east couloir

Looking down the east couloir

Nick making it look easy

Nick making it look easy

Veiw from below the couloir

Veiw from below the couloir

Ice on Lanin

Ice on Lanin

Nick traversing below the cerac

Nick traversing across the ice field

8000 feet later

8000 feet later

Ideal corn snow conditions led us to the point where we had abandoned our shoes for hard shell boots. Drew and ‘Perro’ patiently awaited us there. Regressing through the volcanic debris back toward the Gendarmeria, we were consumed with a sense of satisfaction, dehydration, and hunger. A ‘parrilla libre’ (all you can eat grilled meat) was awaiting us back in San Martin.

Sitting in my assigned window seat on the bus the following day, I struggled against the desire to sleep and glanced out the window to get one more view of Lanin as the bus made its way across the huge expanses of Argentina. Consciousness gave way to dream state and in a seemingly absence of time, I was being served dinner, as the bus made its way through the night en route to Buenos Aires.

 View of Lanin from the bus

View of Volcan Lanin from the bus